Between Sun and Moon

Under a bright sun and blue sky, I'm helming around Cape Horn with Wolf's instruction to give a wide birth to an outlying rock. The sea is calm, even by my experience. Waves are no more than a metre, and we can easily spot a passing seal. This is a disappointment. I had picked Cape Horn because I was looking for some serious peril. I'm told that given westerly winds, we won't be able to land on Isla Hornos. When I imagined the trip, I never expect to land - only to round the horn - but given the opportunity offered, then retracted, it's disappointing.

Shortly thereafter, to my surprise, we're preparing the Zodiac dingy to make a landing. I opt to join the second landing party.

Alas, disappointment is restored as the first party returns to report it's not possible to get through the dense kelp. The disappointment was not especially rational. Perhaps it was motivated by the news that there was a gift shop on the island, but possibly because I have resisted using the sea toilet thus far, and long for good plumbing.

As we round the horn, I split the Cape Horn brewery's Honey beer with the crew. We agree it's a very, very good beer. If not for the occasion, I'd not want to share it. Then, some ukulele. And the Horn is rounded. This evaporates the former disappointment.

At the night's anchorage, three go trekking. I now eat, sleep and trek with my Swiss army knife, to which I've annexed on my torch. A short time later, only two remain trekking. The landscape is pretty much incredible. The sun is brighter than I've ever seen before, presumably due to lack of pollution. Though, under normal circumstances, I'd say pollution is good thing. A healthy level of pollution feels right, and keeps London warm and relatively rain resistant.

Later, we continue to enjoy the break from pollution to stare at stars and nebulas. Given some alocholic lubrication, the sky is even more impressive. So much so, my jaw is hanging open - a habit I picked up from that horny wolf from a Hanna-Barbara cartoon. His eyes would also shoot out and his tongue would roll out. He was a good character, it was a good cartoon.